May the fourth be with you all Star Wars geeks. We might not be in a galaxy far, far away but we are in a country far, far away and now settles into life in the road. Yes there are many challenges but you adapt and over come, even after grumbling and kicking the ground a little. This morning we woke on a more peddled beach off the beaten track.
We see the that it is not so hidden as we were lead to believe on the guide. We arrive late after sunset and after a little off road route and managing not to drive off a cliff edge, we are treated to the gentle crash of waves, complete darkness except the odd car on a minor road some distance away. We successfully set up in the dark and even managed a cooked meal of cauliflower and bean curry and with rice and naan bread yummy and hopefully not to embarrassing in the iKamper later!
We slept well and though still very warm, only dipping to 30 degrees centigrade, the gentle breeze off the sea help us get a half decent night’s sleep. The key to this good night was no wild dogs, wild children or nice ROP officers waking you up. The morning always starts well with a bowl of porridge and cup of tea, though my chirpiness only lasted until slightly cutting my toe paddling in the sea.
Note to self – audit and update first aid bag. Emergency averted with toe sterilised and tape up, we are packed up and back on the road.
Today we are heading for our further east point south west, Ras Al Jinz, a turtle reserve centre. We had a couple of ideas for stops on route but to be honest nothing planned. We are finding his unplanned travel rather liberating.
Just a short drive we call into the Bima Sink hole. Surprisingly this was busy and disappointingly there was pile of practice as we pulled up. We however were greeted warmly by a Omani warden at the gate who welcomed us coming all the way from Dubai, he spotted out regeneration plate on the way.
He explained the rules of the sink hole and even offered guidance about where best to head on our route to the mountains later in the trip. The gardens to the sink hole were fairly nice and there were toilets. We decided not to climb down and swim as it is salt water and there is not showers, so left the large group to Indian men and one Indian woman whom looked like she was learning to swim (odd place to learn) splashing in the hole and taking selfies. The good news was as we left, two of the hardest workers so far in Oman, two refuse men, has pulled up with a collection lorry and had done a great job of clearing the piles of plastic rubbish, but sorry to say they have some way to go. Well done chaps, good work. Though becoming a regular occurrence, nothing seems to calm Becky’s enthusiasm for the dozens of goats running around, seeking shade up the odd tree or demonstrating their agility standing up right on their back legs to get her highest greenery on the tree or the stern looking wild donkey carefully spying and eating anything green in a landscape of sand and rock. I have notice we need to add 20% to our travel time for pulling over, winding the window down for animal photos but Becky.
Taking a little detour we drive up wadi Tiwi. A rather magnificent valley with much greenery here and there in forms of what seem to be allotments of vegetables and rice. With its steep sides we had travelled while when we decided to check how far this wadi goes on for.
Omani Donkey -Equus Asinus
Well it was miles and all leads to a dead end and surprisingly the road was fairly busy, where is everyone going? We never find out as we decided to turnaround d not before we take a look at a communal fresh water well. A large square walled pit with with at least 30 petrol generators lining the wall, each plumbed in and donning a chain and lock. A local explains each one of the generators is own by someone and the lock stops people using yours. I peer over the edge and I am sure I saw this out in the film 300 and the messenger of king being kicked down it by Lionardous. Jumping back in the car quick, we set off down the Tiwi sea front and head toward our next destination, Sur.
Wadi Well
Sur is a large town, but we arrive to a very quiet place and sadly even the Dow boat museum is close.
We did though get to sea one of these tradition boats in its half built state which was impressive. Crossing the largest suspension bridge in Oman, we take an unplanned route through some alleyways and back streets to Becky’s delight as she snaps goats in door ways and we arrive at an Arabic light house.
At this point we are thinking a coffee, but realise that even if we have been able to cook breakfast, we forgot to boil water for the flask and coffee for the day. Looking for the next opportunity for a coffee, we strangely stumble down another backstreet and there to our delight is BREWOZ, not looking to pleased with our selves or looking to desperate we enter with a rather large smile on our faces. Of course coffee but what cake can we have? The choice is bright yellow or bright blue.
Well why not and surprisingly they are both really nice and the coffee also. We sit and exploit the Wi-Fi and admire the Landrover Defender that pulls up with a rather distinguish Omani. We introduce ourselves and have a great conversation about our cars (particularly his), Oman and travelling. After our chat we settle to drink our coffee and enjoy our bright cakes, not noticing our new friend leave and not get to say good bye , but as we leave, we are informed that he had most generously settled our bill. The perfect example of Omani generosity. We left our card as we were informed he is a regular and we hope to repay his generosity in the future.
OZCAFE
We experience the fun of making cheese and pickle muffins from the back of the Jeep for lunch.
Though the cheese was a little warm, this on the roadside lunch hit the spot and energised us for the next leg to the turtle reserve. This place seemed to be well out of the way but worth the effort. Oman has a major conservation and protect program in place for the turtles and it is very impressive. We wondered around the small information canteen come museum and though a little expensive it helps support the turtle program. We of course visit the gift shop and meet the manager of Salihafa who was a super interesting chap and passionate about what he does. The hand made “turtley” amazing fashion and jewellery which he sells, also give part proceeds to help clean the beaches for the turtles. Yet another example of a passionate and informative person in Oman, he shares info on a great place for us to go, camp and potentially see turtles.
Then to our surprise as we head back to Bruce, there stand the magnificent overland trailer. Of course I had to have look and I had the pleasure of meeting a lovely couple from no less than Ras Al Khaimah.
Generously giving me a tour of their rig, Ben a obviously smart airline engineer excitedly explains his set up, including what I can only describe as a small power station that could power most villages. Slightly jealous, I am am in awe of his trailer and especially when he explains he makes his own lithium batteries. I give him our card and hope to catch a cold beer soon to exchange trailer set up information soon.
With our recently given intelligence of a great place to camp, including it apparently being much cooler (this has to be a joke) we set of to find a perch on an even higher cliff edge over looking a turtle beach. What is worrying it there seems to be no road or track to the destination- Garmin Overland do not let us down now! Taking a sharp left off the main road we head cautiously along a stormy and sandy track for a couple of miles then up onto a ledge toward what we couple only see as a continuous expanse of nothing. Then suddenly we are treated by Omani environmental protection officers, they are pleasant enough as they explained that the beach area is closed between a set time and explain the area we can camp for the night. Also letting us know that we may visit the turtle beach at 7am if we want!
Crest Moon and Sunset
We find a level perch for Bruce and set up for the night. Oh yes we are well away from civilisation and on our own. What we have noted is the more we have been travelling the more we have got away from civilisation and the clearer the sky, more the stars come out and blissfully quieter it becomes. This becomes quickly addictive. We decide to set up the iKamper and awning. There is a gentle breeze but we think it should be ok. The sun sets in the day and we soak up the views.
Dinner tonight is bean chilli and potato. But once again, I hope that it fairs well in the iKamper tonight for both of us. I regret forgetting the hit sauce but noted for future trips. After dinner, we sip coffee and green tea staring at the stars that our out in their millions. The silence with the darkness is truly breath taking, making you feel like you are in space yourself.
A great day and I see Becky has settled into the pace and rhyme of life overlanding. You can see this as she is asleep by 21:45 which I find sweet as the silence is now only broken by her gentle snoring. Love is dragging you wife into the desert, to sleep on top of your Jeep without a shower, hair drier or any idea of where you’re going. Becky is truly the only woman for me.