There was a rather strange period in the early hours of the new day! All of a sudden the insects and animals went to sleep and the temperature cooled to a bearable level that we both got a couple of hours sleep. It was super calming and peaceful. Feeling refreshed and after a cooling wash we had a danish and fruit breakfas, plus a cup of tea was critical to kick start the day. Our kind new neighbour also appeared from the plantation with a super large bag of fresh dates which he kindly shared.
We take the time to pack aways and set ourselves up to head off. We planned to head towards Jebel Shams but take a slightly indirect route via Wadi Damm which we read was super wadi to take a dip and cool down in. We knew that rain was in the air and this always has an impact on the wadis, but let’s enjoy the drive and see where the journey takes us.
A key need for the day was to find a area that we could take the trailer slightly off road and give a shake and somewhere private that we could test all elements of the trailer, but more importantly put the generator on tonight. So we set off and a cheeky pit stop at LuLu for fresh eggs we had a car full of Oman ladies in full Eid dress pull up in from of us and commenting on liking our trailer, the last thing we expected but was nice.
A bit further along the road I decided to pull in to one of the many mechanical shops that line the road. I need the generator checked, oiled and fixed slightly with part of the case being cracked. The shop had a middle aged Pakistani mechanic sat on the step and after a little of backwards and
forwards in trying to explain my needs and presenting the generator to them, he soon got on with tinkering with it, but not really until another 6 or do gentleman joined him and got into a loud and rather flamboyant arm waving conversation of how it should be done. It was rather comical to be honest, but they soon had the generator humming away and they only asked for 1 Omani Rial, which included the oil. Brilliant!
The drive found us passing through a village where we spied Al Aswad Fort (حصن الأسود). We had to pull over for a quick pic, but as we did a large SUV pulls up, oh know we are going to get told off, but instead we are greeted by a old chap and vehicle full of young Oman children with ice cream. He asked if we need help first and then warmly invited us to have coffee with him at his family house. He zoomed off and we lost sight of him and even ended up at a dead end road and just as we decided to give up and head off and carry on with our journey, he appear again guiding us toward his family majlis. We then found ourselves being treated by a continuous precession of family greeting us with coffee, dates, food and large smiles. Fascinated with why a English couple find themselves driving through this part of Oman, we told them our story and even got introduced to one of the uncles that was excited to show us his converted van that he spent his lockdown converting. An amazing family such a kind reception. We said good byes but our generous host insisted on showing us and leading us though the Hijra mountains and around Jebel Misht.
All was going well even with the grey clouds looming over head, until we came across one section of the mountain side that had decided to come down across the road. Water and rock everywhere, we pulled over to discuss with our guide that offered us to come back to his village or try to push on edging our way around the landslide. He assures us the road was find the other side so we bid our goodbyes and edge around the missing part of road.
Eventually we make it to the bottom of the Wadi Damm pools track that leads up parallel to the wadi and to the camp site, our final destination for the day. We start to climb and it soon requires us to switch into 4×4 so we finally test the trailer off road.
The light is fading and I can see a concern on Becky’s face as the track gets smaller and there is no way to turnaround (especially with a trailer) so we are committed. The light fades quickly and there is no way we will make the camp. We try to pull over to the only space we could park up for the night and it soon becomes evident that is not going to workout, so we decide to follow Becky’s intuition and as she says very lady like “get the hell of the mountain”. This easier than said, as turning the Jeep and trailer around becomes a feat for any Jeep driver.
Finally, we are heading back down the mountain and by this time it is pitch black, only lit by the Jeep pot lights and flashes of lightening which adds to the drama. The drive down is quicker that up and we manage to park up in a small carpark we saw when we arrived, but now empty, we try to set up and flash up the generator. I struggle with the generator, and not sure exactly if it was an operator issue or just my patience with being eaten alive by the mosquitoes! Anyone that knows me it was being eaten alive, as my blood tastes like coffee and chocolate and all mosquitoes love that type of blood. his is starting to be a challenging night!
Deciding enough is enough! We pack up and decide to head down to the village and along the main road to look for a more civilised area to hold up for the night. We were not out of trouble yet! We drive through the village, pass the shops and mosque, all very nice, when wen hit a line of traffic and multiple beams of car headlights across a raging expanse of water pouring across what was the road.
At this point there is a couple of things I do! First, consider can you walk through the water and can you see what is in the water?
No! Then do not drive through it. Then assess what vehicles are attempting it? If the big off road and trucks are turning around, you should too! And finally, look at what the locals are doing. If they are turning around and fleeing for the high ground, follow them quickly.
We then have a large truck pull alongside us heading away from us. We lower our windows and with warm greetings, he informs us we will not be able to get through and kindly advises that even if you get through this burst wadi, there are more further along the road. He then surprisingly offers us to follow him as he will show us where we can park up and stay in the village for the night. We quickly thank him and spinning the Jeep and trailer around, we are lead to a large playing field area, slightly raised near a radio transmitter. We are informed that will will be safe here and trouble free. We thank him and I just happen to say “all I need now is a coffee and I might join the men at the local coffee shop”, I see his eyes widen and he says “do you like espresso?” Of course! He directs us to jump into his ruck and whisks us up to his house. All of a sudden we are in one minute fleeing from the stormy mountains, being munched on by mosquitoes and stopped in our tracks by flooded wadis and next we are sat in the most amazing and luxury majlis we could imagine drinking amazing espresso and being feed with the most scrumptious food.
It was such a super evening, hosted by the most loveliest couple who share stories and advice to Oman which only made us fall in love more with the country. Nearly ready to spend the night on the floor on one of the most luxurious carpets I have ever sat on, we kindly bid ourselves good might and head back to our trailer. The weather had change a little to and gave us a much cooler evening, which the confidence of a safe place to stay by our generous village hosts, a full stomach and a calmness of our surroundings, we settled in for the night.